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Desoldering Soldering
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 898D SMD Rework Hot Air Soldering Desoldering station  US $115.00
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 858D SMD Rework Hot Air Soldering Desoldering station US $110.00
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 Black Desoldering Solder Sucker Replacement Plastic Tip US $4.26
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 SMD Hot Air Gun Iron Desolder Soldering Rework Station Tips SMT ESD BGA 2in1 US $87.95
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![Desoldering Solder Pump Vacuum Sucker Removal [ES59]](http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/pict/170847761243_0.jpg) Desoldering Solder Pump Vacuum Sucker Removal [ES59] US $.10
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 Solder/Desolder station with vacuup pump US $200.00
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 Aluminium Desoldering Pump Solder Removal Sucker #DP01 US $3.62
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 2.5FT 2.0MM Desoldering Braid Solder Remover Wick Cable US $1.09
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 Antistatic Desoldering Pump Sucker Solder Removal Tool US $1.91
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 Antistatic Desoldering Pump Sucker Solder Removal Tool US $1.91
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 SUCKER DESOLDERING SOLDER PUMP DESOLDER REMOVAL VACUUM US $2.12
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 SUCKER DESOLDERING SOLDER PUMP DESOLDER REMOVAL VACUUM US $2.15
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 5FT 3.5mm Desoldering Braid Solder Remover Wick Rosin fluxed wire GOOT 5 FT US $2.58
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 Soldering Iron for SMD Desolder Rework Station Welder BRAND NEW Ship From US US $6.98
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Here are some more information for Desoldering Soldering:
Learn how to Solder
Learning how to solder cooper pipes is one of the first things you learn in plumbing school. You need to find you own soldering techniques, the more you do it the more you get feel for it. You will eventually find your groove and be good at soldering.
Soldering or sweating involves using a heart source preferable propane torch not a soldering iron to heat the pieces of copper you would like to solder, solder then gets pulled into the fitting bay what is known as "capillary action". Capillary action is just the physical action of the solder getting sucked into the fitting. A soldered joint will last for years to come.
To ensure a proper soldered joint is made you will want to be sure to clean the fittings and pipe you are going to solder. Then you dry fit each piece to make sure that everything is plumb and fit properly. Then you simply grab a old rag to use to wipe and you are good to go.
Be sure to have all the proper soldering equipment to complete the job. Be sure you have all the fittings and all the proper pipe you will be using.
Cutting Copper Pipe
Use copper cutters to cut your pieces of pipe. Make a mark on the pipe where you want to make your cut. Put copper cutters over the cut line and tighten the cutters. Do not clamp the cutters down to hard because it will be harder to turn the cutters around the pipe. Once you have clamped the pipe with the cutters you can start to spin the cutters around clamping the cutters more as you go until the pipe is cut. Use the reamer on the copper cutters to ream out the end of the copper pipe you just cut.
Use emery cloth or sand cloth to clean the ends of the copper pipe where you are going to solder, until it looks clean. ( you will be able to see where you cleaned) What this does is removes dirt and grease that creates oxidization. Being sure that you properly cleaned your pipe and fittings will ensure a leak free joint.
Using a wire brush the proper size, clean out each fitting just like the pipe before soldering. Then fit everything together to make sure that all your cut pieces are correct and that you cleaned enough of the ends of the pipe to solder.
Now take everything a part and use soldering flux on the ends where you cleaned the pipe and on the inside of each fitting. Only use a thin layer of flux because the solder will naturally go where the solder paste is and you don't want to make a mess. Then fit everything back together again.
It's GO time!
Heat the pipe and fitting equally, keep in mind that where the pipe is in the fitting will take more heat, but not too much. Be sure to keep the heat moving; do not let it stay in one spot for too long, you will cook the fitting. After about 8-1o seconds your fitting and pipe should be hot enough to start putting solder in your fitting. If the solder does not melt on contact apply more heat. When the solder starts to drip out of the fitting then you have put enough solder in the joint and move on to the next one. A rule of thumb to remember is if using ½ pipe, you should only use about 1/2 inch of lead free solder. Sometimes it takes more but this is just to give you an idea on how much solder to use. Just to make it look pretty and professional wipe the joint after you have soldered it. Don't wipe the joint too early, it will get messy. I usually wait until it's not shiny anymore. It will also be very hot. If you can, make a temporary soldering station, where you can do as much soldering on the ground before tying it in. Also be careful not to get flux paste near or in your eyes it will burn.
There are also different solder types, the soldering mentioned is lead free soldering, you do not want to use lead solder. Lead soldering is done on drainage lines only and not permitted on potable water lines.
Removing Solder
If wanting to know how to desolder, or un-sweat your fittings, just heat up the fitting as normal and then take two sets of pliers and twist and pull. So hope you enjoyed these soldering tips and now I hope you know how to solder copper pipe.
Have been a plumber for almost 3 years, you know when you find that job?..you know, that one that is for you? Plumbing wasn't my choice out of high school, but more or less I just didn't look into it. Now i know what i will be doing for the rest of my life...kind of a good feeling inside I guess... I picked up Plumbing really quick because I really like it and enjoy going to work everyday. But also its the mechanics of it as well. I hope to provide as much info on the plumbing industry as i can. I'm still learning and love learning new things, because there is so much to know, and do in plumbing. It's Great!
TOSHIBA Tecra A8 Power Problems
TOSHIBA Tecra A8 Power Problems
Laptop Repair Guy points out that Toshiba has issued a warranty extension resulting from a class action lawsuit. As far as I can tell (I’m not a lawyer so better check for yourself) I’m out of luck since I’m in Canada but definitely better to have Toshiba fix it for free than try yourself.
After I put up a post about repairing my laptop power connector, Laptop Freak left a informative comment:
As you see on the photo above, the positive connector oxidized and almost black. If you put a fresh solder on the connector like this, the power jack problem will reappear very soon. I usually remove the power jack from the system board (with iron gun and solder sucker), clean oxidized pins on the power jack and pads on the motherboard and only after that resolder the power jack.
It turns out, unsurprisingly, that he was right. The power jack started coming loose again after about a month and a half. I was in the middle of a bunch of things so I didn’t really feel like messing with it so I just opened up the computer and threw some more solder on it. When the power jack started jiggling again a few weeks later, I knew I had to do something better to fix it. So I picked up a desoldering sucker and some desoldering wick.
It was kind of fun to melt the solder and suck it up until I started thinking about how much money I was messing with. Anyway I had pretty good luck heating up the solder with the soldering iron, sucking with the sucker (it appears the technical term is desoldering pump), and then getting the remainder with the copper desoldering braid. This left only tiny bit of solder so I pulled on each joint separately while heating them with the soldering iron. MAKE just put up a nice soldering and desoldering video tutorial. Would have been handy to have watched that before doing all this.
After all that, I was left with the separated power jack. Laptop Freak wasn’t kidding about oxidation. It looks like someone left the connectors in the Dead Sea. I’m no electrician but I’m guessing black crud covering electrical contacts can not be a good thing. So I scraped off all the gunk with a screwdriver and polished them until they were nice and shiny.
Then I tried to clean the contacts on the board with an eraser to remove any oxidation on the copper, stuck the jack back in its holes and soldered it back on. So far I haven’t had any problems, we’ll see if it last this time. If it breaks again (knock on wood), I’m definitely trying the external power jack workaround.
In case you didn’t read my old post about fixing this, here’s links for how to dismantle a Toshiba Satellite A70 (and tons of other laptops) and the common Toshiba power jack problems.
Replacement Laptop Battery For TOSHIBA Tecra A8 Series
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About the Author
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Whats the difference between a Desoldering station and a Hot Air Rework Station?
Anyone know what the main differences are? I want to be able to replace soldered items on a thru board pcb mainly. Which one will work best?
Hot air rework stations are mostly used in surface mount applications where pin pitch is too small to use a standard soldering pencil. For through hole applications, I have always used a pencil iron with either a solder sucker or solder wick.
OK International Collects Third Consecutive Service Excellence Award at Apex
The team at OK International is currently celebrating the company's third consecutive Service Excellence Award, sponsored by Circuits Assembly magazine. Presented to the electronic assembly products specialist during a ceremony held at the IPC/APEX exhibition in Las Vegas, the award represents an important vote of confidence from the company's diverse global customer base. This prestigious ...
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