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Feed Mig
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 MIG WELDER WIRE FEED ROLLER - BUTTERS PROFEED, FDB, SELCO, ETC  US $42.64
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MIG WELDER WIRE FEED ROLLER - BUTTERS PROFEED, FDB, SELCO, ETC US $42.64
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Here are some more information for Feed Mig:
Wire feed welding is just another name to for MIG welding. The basic idea behind wire feed welding is that you use a welding wire that continually feeds through a MIG welding gun when you squeeze the trigger.
This is a continuous welding process. As long as you keep your finger on the trigger and the welding wire touching the base metal you will be able to wire feed weld all day. There are many different types and brands of welding wire that you can use for many different welding applications.
The most commonly used welding wire is more than likely an AWS ER70S-6 classification wire. This particular class of wire is used in virtually all welding and fabrication shops for many different types of welds. I highly recommend to use a precision layer wound welding wire as opposed to a random wound wire.
A layer wound spool of wire will be evenly wound onto the spool from left to right with each layer of wire neatly sitting next to the other. This makes it a lot better for wire feedability as there will be no bends and small kinks in the wire.
Random wound wire will be just literally random wound onto the spool in any old-fashioned. Because of the way that the wire is wound on the spool in a random fashion, the wire will cross over itself a few times. And as the spool starts to fill up with the wire, every time there is a crossover of the wires it can make a small bend in the wire.
These small bends in the wire can affect your feedability which in turn will affect your overall weld quality.
When using a MIG machine or a wire feed welding machine you will also have welding consumables that need replacing on a regular basis. Every MIG welding gun will have a contact tip and a shroud or a nozzle. And then depending on which brand of welding torch you have there will also be a gas diffuser or some kind of insulator. Some brands of wire feed welding guns like the Bernard range will actually have the gas diffuser built in with the tip holder.
I guess that most DIY or home welders will use what is called a gasless welding wire. This is also known as a flux cored wire. Be careful though because there are two different types of flux cored welding wires. Well actually there are a lot more than two, but for general home welding make sure that you get a gasless MIG welding wire that is a E71T-GS.
Now if you do decide to use a gasless MIG welding wire you are going to have to change the wire feed rolls. The reason for this is because it is a flux cored wire the wire is not solid all way through. So because the flux is on the inside of the wire the wire is very soft.
If you use your standard feed rolls you will see that they are shaped with a vee groove in them which is what you want to use if you are using a solid wire. The problem is that if you use the same feed rollers on your softer flux cored wire you will find that the wire gets squashed and this can lead to all sorts of wire feedability issues so to solve this problem you need to use what is called a knurled feed roller. The knurled feed roller has, like, many small teeth in the grove of the feed rollers. These little teeth help to grab the softer wires and give it traction and push it through the whole length of the welding gun.
Finally you're going to have to use a slightly larger contact tip for when you use a flux cored wire.
So if the wire diameter is for argument sake 0.9 mm you want to use a 1.0 mm contact tip. This will greatly help with the smooth feeding of the wire and allow better welding.
Check out my site for more detailed information on mig welding And also why not check out my page on gasless mig welding I go through with photos and a video showing more detail about using a gasless mig welder for MIG welding..
Flux Cored Welding - Tips About What it is and How to Use It
Flux Cored Welding is not a "new" process, being dated back to the 1920's. Instead of having the protective/stabilizing flux on the outside of the wire, as in "stick" rods, it is at the core of the wire. This flux does the same job as do the gases used Gas MIG Welding.
At Weyerhaeuser Timber Company, we periodically built rail-car "car sills". These are the heavy metal frames upon which the railroad boxcar sits. We would use a "pantograph" machine for semi-automatically cutting out parts for the sill. Then we'd weld many of the parts with "jet rod" (7024 type), which is super easy to run on flat welds. The welds looked VERY nice.
For most other welding, we used heavy duty MIG welders. We'd fiddle with "gas" settings & wire speeds till it was just right. Then we'd just go & go till we got to the end of the pieces. We never had to worry about "duty cycle", we just kept going. We could get a LOT done with those MIGS. If you are going to do a LOT of welding, you may want to start with a wire feed welder.
I prefer a flux cored welder because there's no "gas" bottles nor pressure adjusting, nor are there issues with welding outside in the wind. It's a personal decision; gas or flux cored. I would use the recommended setting ranges, running on the "hotter" side just to get the feel and coordination of running beads. An in-expensive, occasional use flux cored machine for the little jobs is fine. For my bigger jobs I go to my stick welder.
More tips and ideas for flux cored welding:
* If you go through eBay to but one, you may want to first go to welding supply shops & see them in person.
* Flux cored welders are mainly for the thinner materials. If you're going to work on cars & the like, you would probably prefer wire feed over stick.
* I've done a lot of sheet-metal work with stick rods, but I needed to use really small rods, plus do a lot of "touch & go" welding, rather then continuous welds.
* One of your first accessories should be a pair of "MIG pliers". They are great for helping you keep your equipment clean & to be able to easily convert to other wire sizes.
* When you install your 1st wire spool, don't mess with bending it around much, or it may break. Re-threading & pulling out any that's already in the guide tube can be a pain.
* Again, use recommended settings, then make adjustments as needed. Some machines are really limited for adjustments, so you may have to experiment with your gun positioning & arc length.
* I'd bet that there are as many variations for adjustments as there are different manufacturers & models. Be patient & keep trying.
Machine Selection:
* This is primarily dependent on your budget, then on exactly what type of welding you'll be doing. If you feel that you might go beyond just doing your own thing, then get the best you can afford.
* The cheaper units are all pretty much the same: for light duty at home projects. The mid-priced ones can get you started in your business, but you'll likely be up-grading as soon as you can afford to.
Flux Cored Troubleshooting:
* Don't let go of the wire end when you're loading a new spool! It may not feed right even if you can get it all un-raveled & fed through.
* If you feel the wire pushing against the bottom of the puddle, turn the speed down or the heat up (or both).
* Try not to keep the nozzle end too close to the puddle. That can make more splatter get into the tip piece.
* When you first start the weld, stay put momentarily to allow the puddle to form & fill the initial crater.
* Uneven feeding? Make sure the wire guide isn't twisted or kinked.
* Can't see an actual puddle? Clean you helmet lens & get closer. If all you're seeing is a bunch of sparks, you're not really seeing what's going on. And again, you need to go at a speed that gives enough time for a puddle to form.
About the Author
I started working as a Journey-level welder for Weyerheauser Timber Company more than 20 years ago. That was the same year that I became a certified welder in Washington State.
I weld today because it's cool & interesting! If you can DREAM it, you can probably WELD it!
My website: http://www.arc-welding-and-beyond.com
The purpose of my website is to educate the beginning welder in ALL RELATED skill areas of welding: running great beads, designing, preparing, layout, finishing, & troubleshooting problems.
"Welding is more than just running beads!"
HELP SETTING A WELDER?
So i am currently getting my 5g mig certification, i have been welding for years and have always used the old nob style millermatics voltage 1-7 and feed 0-90 and have no problem setting it and laying a good weld with great penitration, but the new millermatic 252 i seen to have problems with... i know there is a chart that gives you the settings inside the welder and all you really need is your ears to set a welder but i knnow the has to be some corrilation between the wire speed and voltage.. ie on the old style voltage 2 wire speed 22 and so on. any help or hint to set it would be great.
Even when it is infinitely adjustable, the voltage only has to be close, within a certain range. This is why some of the best big machines are still tapped instead of infinitely adjustable. So, using the chart, or experience, set the voltage. After that, just play with the wire speed until perfect. If the adjustment isn't there, move the voltage significantly up or down, then go back and play with wire speed until perfect. If the chart is missing, it will be in the manual, which you can download for free from www.millerwelds.com
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