Thanks for visiting our site!
Inlet Outlet
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
 |
 Compact Check Valve, NPT Inlet M 1/4", NPT Outlet M 1/4  US $12.93
|
 Fill Rite FR 901 Meter 1" inlet/outlet - 6-40 GPM US $209.99
|
 1/2" Inlet Outlet Ports Air Quick Exhaust Valve QE-02 US $8.17
|
 Drawer Magnet 3" Inlet, 2 3/4" Outlet, #14303 US $299.00
|
 Drawer Magnet 3" Inlet, 2 3/4" Outlet, #14301 US $299.00
|
 Drawer Magnet 3" Inlet, 3 3/4" Outlet #14229 US $299.00
|
 Motan Dust Collector 2 1/2" Inlet / Outlet #37538 US $250.00
|
 5/16" Outlet Inlet Dia Pneumatic Solenoid Valve DC 24V US $28.56
|
 HONEYWELL 393690-14 INLET - OUTLET STRAIGHT FLANGE KIT US $2.98
|
 Veriflo IR401W3PV1FSMMM3.4, 4000 PSI Inlet X 2-100 PSI Outlet, 1/4" MVCR US $299.00
|
 Norgren 11-002-085 Regulator 3/4" IPS Inlet 400 psig Outlet 125 psig US $39.49
|
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Also Checkout Amazon For Related Products:
| Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded. |
Here are some more information for Inlet Outlet:
There are some options to help your factory water heater improve heating recovery time. You can install what's called a hot rod, which is a electric heating element that replaces the anode rod in your water heater. This rod uses 400 watts of AC power to heat the element and assists the gas portion of the heater with recovery. This is a somewhat viable option for extending your hot water supply time but some water heater manufacturers frown on their usage, stating that it may void the warranty because the lightning rod no longer provides the corrosion protection the standard anode rod does. You still won't get the hot shower of your dreams with this option though.
Here is where the tankless water heater comes in to play. There are two types of tankless water heaters: electric and gas-fired. The first kind works similarly to the hot rod in that an electric heating element heats the water. But that is where their similarities end. Rather than fill up a tank full of water and then heat it, the the electric tankless heater senses water flowing through it, activates the electric heating circuit, and the water is heated instantly. It is 100% automated. As soon you turn off the water flow, the heater turns off. Water temperature is regulated with water pressure. Less water pressure means more heat, and more water pressure equals less heat.
The gas-fired type works very much the same as the electric heater in terms of sensing water flow and instantly heating it. But in this case, a propane burner heats the water. And there are no large electrical power demands needed as with the electric heater. Both can deliver a steady flow of hot water nearly indefinitely, but the gas-fired type will be able to keep up with demand better, and is more easily adapted within a typical RV environment.
The easiest way to mod your RV with a tankless water heater and get that sensational endless shower is to use an inline device that replaces the shower head. This type of heater uses a powerful electric heating element to instantly heat the incoming water just before it exits the shower head. It can increase water temperature by as much as 50F at a one gallon per minute flow rate. This should be enough to supplement the factory water heater so while it's recovering, you are still getting reasonably hot water. The only con is that the unit consumes a lot of current, upwards of 20+ amps. You will need to dedicate a circuit breaker and receptacle for this unit should you decide to go this route.
If you're boondocking, or otherwise camping without hookups, then consider doing this mod with a custom installed gas-fired tankless water heater. These units do an excellent job at providing instant and sustained hot water, and can be used to supplement or completely replace the standard RV water heater. There are a couple of very important things to consider before doing the mod though. The first is the venting requirements. Like your RVs heater, the tankless heater emits CO2 when the burner is on, and the CO2 needs to be vented outside the RV. Three inch tubing is a minimum and should be exhausted through the roof or side wall with the appropriate tubing and vent cap.
You need to also consider where the unit is mounted. The area should be free from anything that could come in to contact with the unit. Also, the unit should have some ventilation or fresh air supply. This isn't critical but the burner does need oxygen to work. Most standard RV cabinet doors don't seal very well to begin with so there should be enough air supply to provide proper performance when the unit is mounted in areas like this. In any case, follow the manufacturer's recommended installation procedures if you are at all unsure. This includes connecting the gas and water supply, and any electrical requirements necessary to power the unit's circuit board.
Finally, and of course the most expensive of all the options, is to completely replace the factory water heater with a drop in replacement tankless heater made specifically for RVs, the RV500. This is by far the easiest way to have endless hot water. Replacing the standard water heater with the RV500 is surprisingly simple. Start by turning off the propane and draining your water heater. Remove the gas supply line and water lines. And disconnect any electrical wiring. Unscrew the fastening screws on the outside frame of the heater and the unit should slide right out.
To install the RV500, reverse the steps used to remove the factory water heater. Chances are the gas supply pipe and the water inlet and outlet tubing won't require any modifications and will attach directly. The heater does require a 12-volt power supply in order for the circuit board to function and otherwise control the unit. It's very low current so you should be able to tap in to most any 12-volt source nearby. Once installed, you just have to turn on any hot water faucet and the unit will automatically turn on. Turning off the hot water faucet in turn shuts off the heater. It's quiet and will keep up with any demand. Now you can take your time showering but you might have to mod your RV with larger holding tanks!
Copyright 2009 by Mark Corgan, owner of ModMyRV.com
Subscribe to our ModMyRV.com Mod Feed at http://www.feedburner.com/fb/a/emailverifySubmit?feedId=2010518
Or visit us at http://www.modmyrv.com, the only site that's just about making mods to your RV.
How To Inspect A Water Heater
Have you ever been told there is no such thing as a hot water heater? I must have heard this a thousand times growing up. The water is not hot before it goes into the water heater. The people who told us this were actually right but I would make me so mad when they would say this because I think they just wanted to be a smart alec. You can call it a hot water heater and I want give you a hard time.
There are basically two types of water heaters or hot water heaters if you prefer. There is gas and electric. You can tell which type you have by looking at the top and bottom of the unit. A gas unit will have a metal flue and possibly a draft hood. The gas unit will also have a gas line with a cut off (hopefully) at the bottom with a burner. Also if the gas unit is in the garage it should be “18 off of the floor for safety reasons. If you have an electric unit it doesn’t have to be off of the floor. The electric unit will not have gas line or a flue but it will have a 220 line in a conduit going into the top of it.
When inspecting an electric water heater one of the first things you want to check is the water temperature. Most manufacturers have the temps preset to 100-150 degrees F. You have to keep in mind that if the water is over 120 degrees F it can scold a small child. We usually write it up if it over 120. You check the temperature of the water by using a digital meat thermometer in the hot water as it is coming out a faucet preferably close to the water heater. The next thing you want to check for is a reverse water-line installation. You can tell whether the installation is reversed by touching the pipe and comparing it the hot outlet fitting at the top of the tank. If it’s cold where it says hot and hot where cold it’s reversed. A reversed connection results in inefficient operation of the heater. When the inlet-outlet is connection is reversed, the cold water enters the tank at the top and mixes with the hot water as it settles to the bottom near the outlet fitting. So for the same thermostat setting the temperature of the hot water is lower than it otherwise would have been. The next thing you need to check is the element and the thermostat. There are checker for these that can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. I think it is important to note here that you must turn the electricity off to do this. Another thing that you should know is that if you turn on a water heater with no water in it you will burn out the element. This is something you definitely want to keep in mind if you are dealing with a foreclosure in which the power and the water have been off for awhile.
An internal part of the water heater that you can’t see is the anode rod. It is usually made out magnesium and attracts any corrosives or oxidizers in the water. This saves the tank from oxidation. It is hard to see or inspect this rod without taking the water heater apart to do so. The way you test for this is to run the hot water and smell it for a sulfur smell. You obviously check for leaks and pay particular attention to the joints in the pipes. If two dissimilar metals are touching each other without some sort of dielectric connection, electrolysis will occur resulting in corrosion and then a leak. There is a drain at the bottom of the water heater that you periodically want to drain out settlement. Near the top of the water heater you should see a temperature relief valve or TPR valve. What this does is let off steam if the unit malfunctions and continues to heat the water. The spring in the relief valve will depress and release the pressure to keep the unit from exploding. There are set for certain temperature and a certain pressure which is stamped on the side of the valve. Sometimes after a couple of years the spring goes bad and this will leak. These are relatively inexpensive to replace.
For a gas water heater everything is pretty much the same except that instead of a heating element you have a burner at the bottom of the tank that should be checked for corrosion and rust flaking. The gas line should be checked for leaks. This can be done is a gas leak detector or bubbly water. The draft should be checked for CO with a detector. Also the flue should not be in direct contact with wood or drywall (or any o the flammable material for that matter. I hope this gives you a better understanding of how to check water heaters. I will talk extensively about thankless water heaters in another writing. The next time someone correct with the old “no such thing as a hot water heater” You can ask them something like what does an anode rod do on a water heater. For more info on water heaters check out the audio at http://www.blogtalkradio.com/the-charlotte-home-inspector or http://askthecharlotteinspector.com .
About the Author
Preston Sandlin is a home inspector and real estate investor in Charlotte NC. He has been performing home inspections and buying real estate in Charlotte NC for over 12 years. He is a member of the North Carolina Home Inspector's Association, the Charlotte Regional Realtors Association, and the BBB. For more information please visit our websites: http://askthecharlotteinspector.com/ http://www.homeinspectioncarolina.com/
if the water inlet and water outlet are interchanged, will there be an effect on the efficiency of condensatio?
if the water inlet and water outlet are interchanged, will there be an effect on the efficiency of condensation?
Not enough information is provided in your question.
A clear, concise question will receive clear, concise answers. A vague, incoherent questions will receive vague, incoherent answers.
MIT Working Toward Lightweight Batteries
Research shows metal catalysts play important role in improving efficiencyA team of researchers at MIT has made significant progress on a technology that could lead to batteries with up to three times the energy density of any battery that currently exists. Yang Shao-Horn, an MIT associate professor of mechanical engineering and materials science and engineering, says that many groups have been ...
Thanks for visiting!
