Thanks for visiting our site!
Metering Pump
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
 |
 Dosatron Precision Water Powered Metering Pump D25RE2VV  US $425.00
|
 Pulsatron Electronic Injection/Metering Pump Series C US $200.00
|
 JESCO MEMDOS / EDX METERING PUMP US $345.00
|
 New Pulsafeeder pulsa diaphragm metering pump PUMP 7660 US $249.99
|
 PULSAtron LB64SA-VCT-XXX Metering and Diaphragm Pump US $199.99
|
 PULSATRON ELECTRONIC METERING PUMP LB03SA-PTC1-G19 115VAC US $139.99
|
 LMI Chemical Metering Pump US $395.00
|
 Prominent Beta / 4 Metering Chemical Pump US $199.00
|
 Bodine 1/6 hp 115v Motor Metering Pump Unit US $60.00
|
 LMI Milton Roy Metering Pump, Model A371-155S US $35.00
|
 LMI MILTON ROY B121-95S Metering Pump 2.5 GPH 100PSI US $499.00
|
 LMI Milton Roy B941-318SI Chemical Metering Pump USED L@@K US $250.00
|
 CHEM-FEED Metering Duplex Diaphragm Pump C-1700N US $320.00
|
 LMI Milton Roy New Metering Pump Valve Accessory #30420 US $29.99
|
 LIQUID METRONICS METERING PUMP A151 82T New US $204.26
|
 LMI MILTON ROY B711-94 METERING PUMP 1.6GPH 150PSI 1/4IN NPT 120V AC 49698 US $419.15
|
 Iwaki Metering Pump 115Volt 0.9Amp EZB15N1-VC US $139.99
|
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Also Checkout Amazon For Related Products:
| Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded. |
Here are some more information for Metering Pump:
Operating a genverter based power is not difficult, and really isn't technical. In our home, our kids knew how to read the meter, and start the generator since they were about 11 years old. The real key to operating the system correctly, is to have and understand the metering between the batteries and the charging system.
silent mode
When the system starts off with fully charged batteries, you have power in what I call "silent mode". You can have lights and other creature comforts without using any gas, since the inverter is converting the stored battery power into normal home AC. You may have certain large loads that may not be appropriate during this time because they would drain the stored energy quickly. In our home these are items like the dishwasher, the well pump, and Jackie's favorite electric iron.
Having a device or meter that measures power flowing into or out of the battery bank is very important. With the meter counting the Amp-Hours or "juice" flowing out of the battery bank, it is easy to see when we've used 30-40% of the total capacity. When this level is reached, its time to make sure we start charging in a serious way by starting up our generator charging source.
free power mode
After charging a short while, it becomes free power time, since the generator is not fully loaded with the task of battery charging. This is the time to run those big loads mentioned above. We call it free, because for the most part, this extra power not used in charging will be lost! As batteries get some charge, they accept less current and more generator power potential is lost. The most expensive part of charging it getting the batteries over that last 10% of charge. Many times we stop before then, but not always as explained below.
maintenance operation
Deep cycle batteries have a wear out mechanism that occurs when they stay below 75% charge for any length of time. It is called sulfating, and is covered in detail elsewhere on http://www.genverters.com. Its ironic, that batteries last the longest if you never discharge them, that is, use them! This third mode of genverter operation is used to keep the batteries healthy and to extend their life.
During normal operation, we like to do what is called an equalize charge for our lead acid batteries. It is a small investment that will help the battery bank last extra years. The charging system is run and the voltage is permitted to go to a higher than normal voltage for a few hours. For example on a 12V battery bank, we let it go up to 14.5V and watch the electrolyte in the batteries bubble some. This helps break up the sulfation that occurs during normal operation. This operation does take extra fuel, but is a good long term investment
Sometimes it is possible if we leave a few days in the summer, to let our solar charging and solar controller to automatically do the equalize charge for us! Basic genverter operation can be broken up into 3 modes; silent mode, free power mode, and maintenance mode. Your power consumption at any time should match the genveter mode. Having and monitoring your charging meter will help determine how your system should be operated at any given time.
I live in the Cascade mountains in an off grid home with my family and animals. I designed and operate both the home power system, and a wireless network serving my home office and many other people in the region. My Interests are alternate power, Linux, and caring for cats, dogs, llamas, sheep, goats and chickens (with family help). Drop by at http://www.genverters.com to sign up for our list of tips for making your off grid move!
How to Prevent Pinhole Leaks, Slab Leaks and Mold and Conserve Energy by Controlling Your Hot Water Recirculation Pump
If you have had 1 leak, more will surely follow – you can do something about it before further damage is done and additional money is wasted.
Circulating hot water is the fastest way to wear out your pipes. In fact 90% of all pinhole leaks and slab leaks happen in hot water lines for the following reasons:
- Chemicals in water are corrosive
- Chemicals in water when heated are even more corrosive
- Chemicals in water when heated and circulated through copper pipes that bend around corners and turn up walls and curve around electrical conduit and sewer pipes and are reduced in size as water passes through a building is extremely corrosive
In order to understand the solution it is helpful to know what causes the problem. With a little insight into how domestic hot water recirculation lines or recirc loops are built and how they work we can see that the answer is as easy as flipping a switch.
Apartments, hotels and larger homes have recirc loops designed to move hot water to the farthest fixture from the boiler or water heater in a reasonable amount of time. Each loop has a pump pushing water through a copper pipe 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Each loop has multiple joints and fittings that obstruct the flow of water. Gate or ball valves and flapper checks and expansion tanks and whatever else the plumber had on his truck the day he built the line create disturbances in the flow path.
Water likes to flow in a nice straight line with no obstructions. This is called laminar flow – nice and smooth. Anything in the flow path can disrupt the flow and cause an eddy to form. Eddies are the bad boys, the unwanted visitor, the black sheep of the family.
Create a little friction, add in some turbulence and the next thing you know you have a leak.
As your reading this please keep in mind there are things you can do to reduce or even eliminate leaks. They are relatively inexpensive and I’ll tell you what they are in a minute.
When water pipes leak many things can happen – none of which are any good. Pinhole and slab leaks, mold, wasted water, wasted energy, property damage, resident/guest complaints and inconvenience all mean one thing.
It cost you time and money.
The only question left is how much? Please refer to Table 1 for an idea of how much a leak can cost.
Table 1: The Cost of a Leak
$200 You caught the leak early and it wasn't buried in a wall or under a slab
$1,000 The leak was in a wall and you caught it early and it was relatively accessible after tearing out some drywall
$2,000 Same as above except you didn't catch it early and mold and light structural damage had occurred
$10,000 The leak was underneath a concrete slab but you were able to pinpoint the exact location
$20,000 Same as above except you had to chase the leak into another rooms
$100,000 + The leak went unnoticed until someone got sick and you got sued
So there is the doom and gloom. What’s the solution?
Good question. The answer is there are a number of things you can do. As you go through my list keep in mind that people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time (based on a study by the California Energy Commission).
First, check your water pressure. 40 psi is high enough for most 1 or 2 story buildings. Be sure to check it in several places to find the lowest pressure in the building. Typically that would be the point furthest from the water meter. If you don’t have a pressure regulator, put one in.
When implementing this strategy do it in stages. Drop the pressure by 5 psi at a time and wait to see if you have any complaints. Showerheads and aerators already restrict flow to 2.5 gpm or less. Newer fixtures like the Evolve line of low flow showerheads have pressure compensating technology built into them and work just as well at low pressure as they do at high pressure.
Second, turn off the pump when no one is using hot water. That’s right. I said turn off the pump. As I mentioned earlier people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time. The pump only needs to be on when people need water.
There are 3 methods of implementing this strategy:
- The Manual Method
- The Guessing Method
- The Automated Method
Manual Method
Have someone go to the switch and turn on the pump when you need hot water and turn it off when you are done. Might be practical for a single family home (certainly not convenient) but impossible in an apartment or hotel.
The Guessing Method
Plug your pump into a timer and guess when hot water will be needed. This may be a practical solution if the number of people living in the house or apartment or with a limited number of guests in a hotel and everyone has the same predictable need for hot water. Unfortunately when hot water is needed during an off period the timer gets disabled and never turned back on.
The Automated Method
Think about your recirculation line as a closed loop. When there is no demand for hot water, no water enters or leaves the system. When a hot water faucet is turned on there is a “leak” in the system.
When water leaves the system more water is added from the city water line through a cold water make-up line (this is the technical name for the copper pipe that brings cold water to your water heater).
If a flow sensor is placed in the cold water make-up line, any indication of water movement would mean someone is using hot water.
If the sensor sensed a demand (i.e., someone turned on a hot water faucet) it could turn on the pump. The demand would be met and the pump could be turned off automatically when the demand ended.
That is precisely how an On-Demand Intelligent Pump Controller works. The pump is only on when there is a demand.
As it turns out, there are many benefits to automating your recirc pumps operation:
- Drastically reduces pinhole leaks and slab leaks – if the hot water is not moving, it is much less corrosive
- Energy is conserved – since people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time, the pump will be off 80% to 85% of the time. That means the recirculation line isn’t full of hot water and no energy is being lost. California Energy Commission studies indicate 37% less energy is consumed when an On-Demand Controller is installed.
Note: A sufficiently high speed pump is required (2,200 rpm or faster) to implement this strategy. If you have a high speed pump you will only need an On-Demand Controller. If not you will need a full system including a high speed pump.
In conclusion, cut your risks, lower your losses, reduce your energy bill and extend the life of you pipes and water heater or boiler by turning off you recirc pump with an On-Demand Intelligent Pump Controller.
Contact me directly at the email address below to find out if this solution will work for you or what other options you might have. To purchase the On-Demand Intelligent Pump Controller click on the link below.
Do it now and sleep better tonight knowing that one of your biggest headaches just got cured.
About the Author
Mark Franklin is CEO of Saves You Energy, LLC a manufacturer and retailer of water and energy conservation products. As a civil engineer Mr. Franklin was involved in the design of multi-family and commercial projects worth in excess of $100 million.
Mr. Franklin has worked with companies ranging from the US Navy to Embassy Suites and Biltmore Hotels to Stanford Student Housing. Pinnacle Properties, United Development Group and ConAm are among the apartment ownership and management companies that have used his products. School Districts like the Blue Valley School District in Kansas and ESCOs such as Johnson Controls have utilized his technologies to reduce energy consumption.
Mr. Franklin can be reached at mark@SavesYouEnergy.com
How accurate are the volumes of gasoline the meters say you pumped into your car/truck tank & then paid for?
Where can one get the info on standards for gasoline and diesel pump meter accuracy?
The fastest way to stiff you is to sell you more gasoline by an adjusted or inaccurate meter than you actually get from the pump. Here in Texas, a few stations have been caught at it. Water in the gasoline doesn't work for the thieves because the vehicles could stall and draw attention to the station's operator-owners or the gasoline providers in the supply chain.TWH 08182006
ps you can check it yourself using an empty gallon of milk to measure the gallon you bought in a legal gas can. If not accurate, call the # on the pump inspection label and report your find and, whatever you do, don't tip the station off as to what you've done.
With today's prices of 3.00$/Gallon ,what's it costing you if you pay for 20.5 gallons & you only get 20 gallons? An extra 1.50$ per tankfill. That adds up quick.
It varies. Usually in each state (in the U.S) you will see a sticker on the pump which tells you what agency is required to inspect the pump and verify they are accurate. And they would certainly have the details on standards.
The catch is they can't really inspect all the pumps regularly. So unless you spot a problem (I had an experience where the display started to change even before I started pumping!) you can't be certain there isn't a problem.
Usually there is a department of weights and measures or something like that. But it's easiest to just go to the gas station and find that sticker/seal. If you think there is a problem, call them and ask them to come out.
INSTALLATION OF A SOLAR ELECTRIC SYSTEM
1. Is my home suitable for the installation of a solar electric system? Answer: Almost any building with a sunny roof which faced in a southerly direction is suitable for installation.
Thanks for visiting!
