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Strong Hand
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 Strong Hand Tools Welding Table - NEW  US $134.99
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 One Pound Polycaprolactone - Hand-Moldable Plastic - Easy, Strong and Reusable US $24.99
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 STRONG HAND ADJUST-O MAGNET SQUARE - MSA46-HD US $41.08
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 STRONG HAND UTILITY CLAMP ~ 12-1/2" 2400lbs ~ UM125 US $59.95
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 STRONG HAND 4-IN-1 CLAMP KIT~ 8-1/2" 1200lbs ~ UG85-C3 US $29.93
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 STRONG HAND ADJUSTABLE MagTab DEVICE FOR TACK WELDING US $12.85
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 Strong Hand Welders Angle Clamp by StrongHand WAC35D US $105.75
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 Strong Hand Sliding Bar Clamp UD45J 4-1/2 x 3-1/4 US $13.99
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 Strong Hand Small Pipe Pliers by Stronghand PG622V US $25.95
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 2 Pry Bars -NEW *hand tool durable strong* US $8.95
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 Strong Hand Adjust-O Dual Switch 90 degree Magnet by StrongHand MS2-80 US $126.75
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 Strong Hand Small Mag Spring Sliding Arm Clamp UDV45 US $25.75
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 Strong Hand Large Pipe Pliers by Stronghand PG114V US $20.95
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 Strong Hand 3 Axis Welders Clamp by StrongHand WAC35-SW US $211.95
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 STRONG HAND PIPE PLIERS ~ 11" w/ V-Pads ~ PG114V US $19.90
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 Strong Hand Sliding Bar Clamp UD65 6-1/2 x 3-1/4 US $12.99
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 Strong Hand Magnetic V-Pads by Stronghand Tools MVDF44 US $39.00
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 STRONG HAND 4-IN-1 CLAMP ACCESSORY KIT ~ fits UF & UG US $6.95
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 STRONG HAND ADJUST-O MAGNET SQUARE - MSA45 US $30.55
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 STRONG HAND EXPAND-O PLIERS - SET OF TWO - 6" & 10" US $42.88
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 STRONG HAND POWERBASE GROUNDING MAGNET - 300A - GM203 US $59.40
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 Strong Hand Snake Magnet Positioner by Stronghand Tools MFC318 US $30.95
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 Strong Hand 6 Pack Mini Positioning Magnets StrongHand MS346AK US $43.75
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 STRONG HAND MAG-LEVEL - 4"x16"x1" MSL-316 US $54.49
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 Strong Hand Reverse Action Pliers by Stronghand | PE10 US $30.95
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 STRONG HAND Mini-MAGNETS ~ MS346AT ~ 25lbs PULL ~ 1 PR US $9.95
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 STRONG HAND 4-IN-1 CLAMP KIT~ 6-1/2" 1000lbs ~ UF65-C3 US $24.63
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 STRONG HAND ADJUST-O MAGNET SQUARE - MSA47 US $57.79
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 STRONG HAND 4-IN-1 CLAMP ACCESSORY KIT ~ fits UM & UP US $8.95
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Strong Hand Tools Nomad Welding Table with MagSpring Clamp and Mini Magnet Twin Pack, Model# TS3020FK Sale Price: $134.99  |
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This Strong Hand Tools offer includes a welding table and clamps. The 30in.W x 20in.L tabletop includes three 1.1in. slots that allow clamps to be inserted at any point. Table can be set up horizontally or at a 30deg angle and adjusts from 26-32in. in height. Tabletop features zinc-plated 14-ga. steel construction and 1020 carbon steel frame. Package includes 4 1/2in. Mag Spring clamp that features a spring loaded arm and magnetic V-Pad jaw that instantly adjusts to hold round, flat and angled steel surfaces, with 500-lb. clamping pressure. Table folds flat for convenient rollaway storage. Also includes 2 mini-magnet clamps that are ideal for light duty holding in tight spots. Dimensions L x H ( ft.): 20 x 32 (adjusts 26-32), Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 24 x 32 x 6 1/4, Color: Zinc plate, Material: 14-ga. steel tabletop, Material Thickness (mils): Tubing 30mm x 30mm x 1.5mm, Frame Material: 1020 carbon steel, Dimensions W x H (ft.): 30 x 32 (adjusts 26-32) |
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Strong Hand Tools Economy Welding Table Accessory Clamp Kit - 6-Pc. Set, Model# TSK104 Sale Price: $64.99 |
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The Strong Hand Tools economy welding table accessory clamp kit provides a variety of tools to assist welders. Pieces (qty.): 6 |
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Strong Hand Tools Locking Pliers - 11in., Model# PG114V Sale Price: $24.99 |
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Save time and money with the quick-acting Strong Hand line of Clamps, Magnets, and Pliers. Each innovative Strong Hand Clamp is specifically designed to be quick-acting, so you save valuable work set-up time. Built with heat-treated steel and nickel/chrome plating for strength and durability. Material: Steel / nickel, Finish Type: Chrome, Length (in.): 11, Throat Depth (in.): 3 1/2, Opening (in.): 1 1/5 - 2 1/2, Pieces (qty.): 1 |
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Strong Hand UG85-C3 4-in -1 Utility Clamp Kits. Capacity 8-1/2" Throat Depth 4-3/4" Sale Price: $33.50 |
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Strong Hand UG85-C3 Capacity 8-1/2" Throat Depth 4-3/4" Clamping Pressure 1,200 lbs(550 kg) Rail Size 1"X 15/32" Tapped Hole 3/8-16 Strong Hand© 4-IN-1 Utility Clamps C3 Package The C3 Package comes with a Utility Clamp, V-Pad Accessories, and Extender Block. The Only Sliding Arm Clamps in the industry with the removable/reversible clamp arm, and the threaded jaw hole for adding exclusive Strong Hand® accessories. The 4-IN-1 Clamp adapts to create a: Pipe Clamp, Spreader Clamp, and Step-Over Clamp. 1 Clamp...4 Applications. |
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Strong Hand Locking Pipe Pliers - PG622V |
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Strong Hand(r) Locking Pipe Pliers - PG622V Strong Hand(r) PG622V Locking Pipe Pliers are the patent pending, new convenient way to hold pipe / tube for butt-welding. These pliers will hold pipes securely. The design also allows for user to adjust the clamping pressure without releasing the pliers. Super strength for the professional. Features Forged, rugged pliers with V-PADS for holding pipe Deeper than normal throat for versatility Made of high strength treated steel Nickel/chrome plated body Specs Size: 6" Pipe Diameter Capacity: 1" to 2" Free standard ground shipping within contiguous U.S. |
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Strong Hand Mag Tab Welding Magnet MFT10 |
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Strong Hand Mag Tab Welding Magnet MFT10 Strong Hand MFT10 Mag Tab Welding Magnet is the better, faster way to hold tabs in place for tack welding! Features Hold tabs, or any small metal pieces, parallel or perpendicular to the substructure. The Adjustable Magnetic V-shape base adjusts for different shapes: round, flat, angle metal surfaces. Specs 4" x 3" x 1 1/4" Free standard ground shipping within contiguous U.S. |
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Simpson Strong-Tie S07225FB5 Stainless Steel Hand Drive Trim Head Screw List Price: $79.99 Sale Price: $63.51 |
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The small deeply countersunk heads and slender shanks are easily driven flush with or below the surface. Ideal for fastening corner boards, balusters, handrails, piers and docks, or any decking work. 1 square drive bit is included with each box. Grade 305 stainless steel. Suitable for new treated lumber. Coarse threads approximately 2/3 up shank, draws board tightly to substrate. Pre drilling recommended. |
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Strong Hand Tools Jointmaster 90deg Angle Joining Tool - 3in. Throat, Model# PL634 Sale Price: $28.00 |
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The Strong Hand Tools Jointmaster 90deg angle joining tool is ideal for quick hold and release of metal, wood or synthetic materials. Finish Type: Chrome, Length (in.): 8, Throat Depth (in.): 3, Opening (in.): 4, Pieces (qty.): 1 |
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Strong Hand Locking C-Clamp w/Swivel Pads PR18S |
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Strong Hand(r) Locking C-Clamp w/Swivel Pads - 18 inch PR18S Strong Hand(r) 18 inch PR18S Locking C-Clamp w/Swivel provide super strength for the professional metal worker. Similar to the Round Tip version, but the swivel pad on these will have a wider surface of contact thus, preventing dents on more delicate materials. Features Forged, rugged round tip pliers with swivel pads The easiest to use Deeper than normal throat for versatility Made of high strength treated steel Nickel/chrome plated body Specs Size: 18" Jaw capacity: 4.5" Standard ground shipping included within contiguous U.S. |
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Strong Hand Tools Sliding Arm Clamp - 6.5in., Model# UF65 Sale Price: $27.50 |
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Save time and money with the quick-acting Strong Hand line of Clamps, Magnets, and Pliers. Each innovative Strong Hand Clamp is specifically designed to be quick-acting, so you save valuable work set-up time. Built with heat-treated steel and nickel/chrome plating for strength and durability. Material: Heat-treated steel, Finish Type: Nickel/chrome, Length (in.): 6 1/2, Throat Depth (in.): 4 3/4, Clamp Pressure (lbs.): 1,000 |
Here are some more information for Strong Hand:
When training in basketball, and more specifically working on your ball handling, there are a few things that you absolutely must do.
I watch players train all the time. And it's no wonder that very few players are great ball handlers. It all comes down to the way they train. They practice the wrong things. And to make matters worse they practice at half speed. So put the two together and it's a disaster.
Well have no fear. I'm here to make sure this doesn't happen to you. But before I get to the meat and the potatoes here I want to make one more point. While I do believe that you play how you practice, I don't believe that practice makes perfect. I don't really view perfection as a worthy goal.
I think players should strive to get a little bit better everyday and work on smaller goals so that they see light at the end of the tunnel. So many times players grow up wanting to be like a professional that they see on television. I'm all for that. But sometimes this can lead to frustration and discouragement.
So for starters, work on practicing hard. Give it 110% and set small goals for yourself. And gradually you'll notice improvement, which is the natural order of things.
Now for some things that pertain to the actual training. Here are three areas that players need to focus on when working on their ball handling:
Weak hand
Your goal is to catch up your weak and if possible make it your strong hand. So many players go through their whole career masking their weak hand and playing one-handed. It becomes a battle of wills. They figure if they can just force it to their strong hand they'll be able to beat the defense. The only problem with this is that the higher levels up that they go, the defenders are better and better. So instead of running into a brick wall and that weak hand catching up to you, get to work on it immediately.
Speed Dribble
If you can speed dribble, you'd be surprised at how much more you can make happen on the court just from mastering this. So I really recommend you get better at this when training. I see so many players looking like a train wreck when they start trying to push the ball up the court.
Change of Direction
Changing direction on the court is like turning a car. Imagine what would happen if you weren't good at making turns when you drove a car. So I recommend you set up cones on the court and work on changing directions when you're training.
Working on your dribble doesn't have to be too complicated. And you don't have to expect to be a master right out of the box. But as I said before, do it in baby steps. Your efforts will compound over the course of a few months and you'll be lethal will these skills before long.
I have figured out more sneaky basketball dribbling training tips, techniques, and secrets that will have you handling the ball like a yo-yo on a string. Visit my site for the Free mini-course at http://DribblingSecrets.com now.
Made Hands, Monsters to Mice
After the flop, much of the strength of your hand depends on the character of the flop. Obviously, if you start with a pair, and make trips, a full house or four of a kind, you have a big hand, these are the Monsters. What is not so obvious is how the strength of your hand changes when you hit a fair hand, but get a flop that may have helped one, or more, of your opponents.
In the rare situation where you have a monster, hope that someone either bets, or catches a card on the turn so they can call your bet. You have an almost unbeatable hand, and the other players are going to be scared off by the flop. Your goal in this situation should be to keep as many players around as possible, and to get as much money in the pot as possible.
With your biggest hands, you may want to slow play and entice someone else into betting. But, in those rare cases when you have the best hand and other players are betting and rising, join in and help to build the pot. After all, it is almost certainly going to be yours. If the board later pairs, and there us any betting, you may be facing a full house.
Two Pair
Flopping top 2 pair when you have 2 different cards in your hand, is a very strong hand. Top and bottom pair is also a very strong hand. Since you will usually be playing premium cards, top 2 pair will often give someone else a straight draw, and/or a flush draw.
As a result, you should not slow play these hands. Your goal is to force players out of the hand, and charge those that stay. While this hand warrants raises and re-raises, lots of action could mean they have a set. If so, or a straight or flush is possible, you could be drawing to only 4 outs.
If the pot has already gotten large, you should call it down. If the pot is not large, or you are positive that the other player has you beaten, with 4 outs you need pot odds of 11:1 to make the call profitable.
When you have 2 pair, and 1 is on the board, your hand is not as strong as the split 2 pair. Another player may already have trips, or a higher 2 pair. If a card higher than your pair hits the board, it could make someone a higher 2 pair. There could also be other draws out that may beat your 2 pair.
This is another situation to play aggressively, to chase players out, win the pot immediately, or at least make it expensive for players to draw. If you are raised, or check raised, on the turn, you may be up against trips. But, by now, the pot has gotten big. You may want to back off and call, but you shouldn’t fold unless you are sure you are beaten, or you are facing 3 bets cold.
Top Pair
Top pair, good kicker is a very strong hand. This is 1 reason to treat Big Slick, Ace and King, as a strong hand. With a flop of King, Eight, Three, and 3 different suits you have an excellent hand. The only card higher than the flop pairs your Ace, giving you top 2 pair. There are no flush or straight draws, so you are only worried about Ace, Ace, King, King, or a pair of Eights or Threes in the hole.
You have a strong hand with top pair in the hole when the flop is 3 cards lower than yours and is un-coordinated. If you are the only one who raised with your pair of Kings before the flop, and the flop is Queen, Eight, Three, 3 different suits, you have a very strong hand. There are no straight or flush draws, it is unlikely that someone has a pair of Queens, so you are worried only about an Ace, or another Queen falling, a pair of Eights or Threes.
With hands, and flops like this, you want to get as much money in the pot as possible, since you are a favorite to win.
If you have Jacks, Queens, Kings or Aces in the hole, and get a flop such as Eight, Nine, Ten, or 2 of 1 suit, or the board is paired, your hand is not as strong. Your hand is vulnerable to many cards that can come on the turn or river. Now, instead of a limited number of hands that may beat you, you may be facing a flush draw, a straight draw, or both. With a pair on board, you may be facing trips a full house, or a draw to a full house.
In these situations, you want to eliminate players, and try to win the hand immediately. If you think that someone after you will bet, you should check and raise, to face several players with calling 2 bets. If you are not sure that someone else will bet, you bet. You cannot afford to give players a free draw.
When you start with Ace, Queen, Ace, Jack or Ace, Ten, and pair your Queen, Jack or Ten, you have a hand that is mediocre to somewhat strong, depending on the flop. If your pair is the top pair on board, and the flop has no draws, you have a fairly strong hand. But, it is vulnerable to over cards on the turn or river. Ace, Queen, with a flop of Queen , Six, two, or Ace, Jack, with a flop of Jack, Six, Two, the further down you go with this, the more hands that can beat you. With an Ace, Queen, and an Ace on the flop, you are beaten by someone with Ace, King. With an Ace, Queen, and a Queen on the flop, you are beaten by anybody holding a King if a King falls. With Ace, Jack, and a Jack on the flop, you are beaten by any King, or queen, that pairs someone.
Once again, you want to eliminate players, or win the hand immediately. If you think that someone after you will bet, check and raise. If you are not sure that someone will bet, bet out. You cannot afford to give players a free, or cheap, draw in this situation.
If you make top pair, such as a pair of Eights, or Sixes, with your second card when you have an Ace, you have one of the mice. There are many cards that can fall on the turn and river that will give one of your opponents a higher pair. In addition, if all 3 cards on the flop are lower than a Ten you are often facing straight and/or flush draws.
Another mistake made by low limit players is to treat a pair of Aces, with a bad kicker, as a strong hand. It is one of the mice. You have an Ace and Five of hearts in the blinds and get in the pot cheaply hoping for a flush draw on the flop. Instead, you pair the Ace, and there are no hearts. You have top pair, but the more opponents you have, the more likely it is that someone has an Ace with a higher kicker.
With these hands, if someone bets, fold and save some money. You have 5 outs that will improve your hand, the 3 Aces, and 2 of your pair, or the 3 remaining of your kicker, and the 2 remaining Aces. In order to call a bet in this situation, you need to be getting pot odds of at least 8.5:1. Since you could improve your hand and still lose, you probably want odds of at least 10:1. If there are players to act after you, you need higher odds, to make up for the times that a player to your left raises.
With a pair of Tens or lower, you will usually only has a strong hand after the flop if you hit the third card for your set. Occasionally, the flop will all be lower than your pair, and be un-coordinated. Also, occasionally, you will hit a straight draw with your pair. Most often however, you will hit a card higher than your pair, face some betting, and should fold.
If you do hit your set, you have a very strong hand. You should bet out, or raise if someone else bets. In low limit games, players will often not believe you have a set if you bet, or raise, on the flop. They will expect you to slow play such a strong hand, and not raise until the turn. They will therefore often call all the way with as little as one small pair.
Second or Bottom Pair
These are more mice. In low limit games, someone who bets, normally has at least top pair. If you have 2 different cards in the hole and paired 1 of them, you have 5 outs to improve, 2 more cards of the rank you paired, and 3 of your second card. With a small pair in the hole, you only have 2 outs to improve. Even if you include implied odds, it is unlikely that you will have the odds you need. To make matters worse, you really need better odds to make up for the times you hit 1 of your outs and still lose. You also need higher odds from the pot if there are players still to act after you.
The only time you should call a bet with second or bottom pair is when the pot is big, your second card is higher than any of the cards on board, and you also have a backdoor draw, 3 to a straight or flush.
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How does one keep the pimp hand strong?
Punch a bucket full of hot sand over and over, and be sure to chant to yourself... "yoo is my biatch... yoo is my biatch" while doing it.
Man, did you fall asleep in pimp school o' what?
Star Wars Cartoon? The Force Is Strong With This One
Move over Homer Simpson, George Lucas is about to enter your TV space.
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