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Wire Feed
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 Lincoln Electric Pro-Mig 180 Wire Feed Welder. NEW! SEALED  US $533.88
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 Craftsman Wire Feed Welder MODEL#: 196.205680 US $90.09
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 Snap-On Mig Welder Heat or Wire Feed Potentiometer 880-052-666 Parts US $14.95
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 MILLER MIG WELDER WIRE FEED ROLLER US $32.83
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 MIGATRONIC MIG WELDER WIRE FEED ROLLER US $32.83
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 Clarke Mig Welder Wire Feed Drive Roller 130EN Part # WE6548 or WE33805001 US $24.99
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 5 x Wire Connector Feed Through 12 Position Terminal Block 24A 450V - Free Ship US $8.99
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One common failure point on the Jeep Cherokee unibody is the point where the driver's door attached to the pillar. Often, the heat affected zone around the weld will crack allowing the door to pull loose.
It is best to make the repair before the hinge breaks completely loose. However, most don't make it to me until they have completely separated.
Jeep has a repair kit available for this common failure. There is also a Technical Service bulletin to at describes the repair and the use of the kit. You may wish to check out this method before proceeding with the following procedure.
My preferred method of making the repair is to reweld the hinge in place. This can be accomplished with a small wire feed welder with minimal welding skills.
To access the hinge, you will have to remove the fender. If this is an off road Jeep, then you will not likely have to deal with the flares and inner liner. However for most, these parts will have to be removed as well.
There are three fasteners that hold the fender under the front fiberglass header. So, begin by removing the header. The front piece is held in place by two nuts on either side and four nuts along the top radiator support. You will have to remove the head light surrounds to access the nuts on either side.
With the header loose, slide it to the side. There is usually enough slack in the headlight wiring harness to move it enough to access the three fasteners. If not, remove the air box to access the connector. Remove the three torx head bolts securing the fender. I prefer to remove the three that hold the fender to the angle piece as it makes the fender easier to remove.
Remove the plastic rivets that attach the flare to the air dam. I have not found a way to reuse these so just cut them with a pair of dikes. There is also a sheet metal screw that holds the fender to a brace near the front. Remove this screw as well.
Next, remove the bolts along the top of the fender under the hood. There are two more inside the door opening. If the torx head strips while trying to remove these, you can drill the bolt head off using a ¼" drill bit. Use a good quality torx bit to minimize the chances of stripping the bolt.
There are two more bolts at the pinch seam at the bottom of the fender. Since these are exposed to salt and dirt, they rarely come off in tack. Save time by cutting them out with a cut off wheel. They can be replaced with any ¼ inch bolt and nut.
Separate the inner fender liner and pull it out. Often but not always, the liner will be attached to the bolts that hold on the flares. These small bolts are easily broken so use lots of penetrating oil and be very careful when taking them out.
With the liner out, you can see a brace that holds the fender. Remove the bolt from the flare connector to remove it. Carefully lift off the fender.
Now you can access the hinge mounting area. Close the door and make sure it is securely latched in the proper position.
If the hinge is not completely broken away, you can tap it back in place with a hammer before rewelding. In the more likely event that it is broken completely loose, you will have to compress the weather stripping to get the hinge into the proper position before welding.
One way to press the door into place is to use a 2x4 plank about eight feet long. Pad one end and place it against the door just below the mirror. ( see photos on my blog for details) Use a ratchet strap to pull it against the door. I hook one end of the strap to the free end of the board and the other end to the T slot in the unibody frame rail just below the door. Be careful to tighten it only enough to press in the hinge and not so much as to dent the door.
Use a grinder and wire brush to remove as much paint as possible from the weld area. You likely will not be able to get it perfectly clean but remove as much as possible for a smoother weld.
Now, tap the hinge into its correct place and weld. Mimic the factory weld by putting most of the heat on the thick hinge and only enough on the thin sheet metal to get good penetration. Start on areas that you were able to clean and work into the areas that still have paint. You will get some splatter but the paint will burn away and make a secure weld.
Once you have a good weld, let it cool and paint the area to prevent further rusting. Reinstall the fender, inner liner and front header.
Mike Strawbridge is a Performance Improvement Coach who loves helping people achieve what they truly want in life and business.
To learn more about how to save money on Jeep repairs see ==> http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog
An Electrician's Opinion About Home Wiring
Bill Lutz is a licensed electrician who owns Generation 3 Electric in Philadelphia. Here, he gives his opinion about how to wire a house.
Beginning at the age of 13, I worked with my dad every weekend and summer vacation in homes throughout Philadelphia repairing and rewiring all levels of residential electrical systems. It has taken me many years to learn the skills that I use every day. I'm proud to be an electrician. I know how to run new wires to the right spot to control a light. I'm sure which outlet box to run my wires if I need to add something to a circuit. I realize when to match a black wire with a white one. I understand what the red wire is used for. And I also think that all of these will change in the near future.
Light Switches with Microchips
At present, the way we wire a home is labor-intensive and not very flexible. House wiring may become less complicated in the future. The difference could be the way to control the devices on our home electrical system. Microchip controlled switches will become cheap enough so that they could be incorporated into every light. We would get rid of complicated wiring circuits such as three-way circuits and switch legs. All that each light needs would be a simple feed, so anyone could add new circuits.
Computer technology is advancing and taking over every aspect of our lives. You can already buy light switches in which microchips are built. They can receive signals from other devices and control the lights in your home. Groups of lights can work as one to create moods. For example, I like to use my iPhone to control the lights in my house and create moods. A three-way remote control switch can be added to a circuit without even adding wires. Ceiling fans come with a remote control, so you can control them from your bed.
Control Panels
The same thing would be true at the locations where you would want to control your lighting. Instead of light switches in each room, you would have control panels powered with simple feeds. These panels would use your house network to control switches built into each light. You would be able to tell each control panel to act whatever way you want it to act. Each panel could be a timer, dimmer or mood setter. It could also work other parts of the house like the radio or drapes.
These will affect the way we wire a house. The physical wiring will be greatly simplified. All that you will have to know is the correct wire size and how to match black and white wires to each other. The skills and tricks I have learned over THE years will become obsolete. It looks like I will have to learn to program so I will be ready for the future of home wiring.
About the Author
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I want to buy a Mig/wire feed welder, what do i need to know?
I would like to get a welder that i can use to weld together tube steel like from a bicycle frame (steel) that is load bearing. I want to use flux core and plug into a standard home outlet. What are some things i should look for in a good welder? I will be buying a used one off of craigslist
Lincoln 110 wire welder and recommend using gas too. Preferably 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide.
Journalist in war faces troubling questions
All around, men roared and rifles thudded. Sprawled in the earth in an open field, an American soldier to the left handed me a wounded man's ammunition belt. Even as Taliban bullets whipped overhead, I thought about professional codes of conduct. Carry the belt? Or not?
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